My Soap is Sweating and slippery

yoenoess · May 9, 2011

Im using:
Olive oil 400gr
Palm oil 200gr
Coconus oil 280 gr
Grapesseed oil 50 gr
Beeswax (white) 20 gr
Castor Oil 50gr
Lye 146 gr
Water 219,3 gr
Milk powder 100 gr
Honey 20 gr
Kitchen Salt 50 gr
Kitchen Sugar 50gr
1st I mix 100 gr milk powder, 50 gr salt and 50 gr sugar with 50 gr water
2nd mix 146 gr NaOH with 169,3 gr water, cooled it down then I pour my 1st to 2nd (maybe until room temp)
3rd mix all those oil and and put it on stove to melt beeswax and wait it to cool down (maybe until room temp)
4th Pour lye to oil and hand blander it, wait until light trace then put honey in and it trace so quick

I pour it to 2 different mold, wood en(25cm x 8cm x 6cm) and small silicone mold (50-60gr each)
Those soap from wooden mold after I cut it, it color kindda orange spot (cut it after 48hours). And those from silicone mold it still white (pop it out after 24hours)

But all of them is sweating and slippery, it has bad odor

carebear · May 9, 2011

The odor is the milk and it will fade away.
The orange dots are either milk or honey not mixed in completely.
The sweat is the humidity in your cure area OR overheating.

I have to run but can write more later.

ToniD · May 9, 2011

I looked at this recipe on soapcalc, and it looks like less than 1% superfat, and if I am reading her water amount correctly, a 40% lye concentration.

Would that contribute to the issues?

yoenoess · May 9, 2011

ToniD said:
I looked at this recipe on soapcalc, and it looks like less than 1% superfat, and if I am reading her water amount correctly, a 40% lye concentration.

Would that contribute to the issues?

oh i didnt check it on soapcalc, i made my own spreadsheet based on soapcalc. thank you for you effort to check it. next time i'll double check on soapcalc 1st

i want to use
Water : lye = 1,5 : 1

im hoping less cure time

carebear said:
The odor is the milk and it will fade away.
The orange dots are either milk or honey not mixed in completely.
The sweat is the humidity in your cure area OR overheating.

I have to run but can write more later.

im living in tropical country, and rainy quite hard lately.
yeah maybe too humid now, i'll put my soap to less humid room

HomeBrew · May 10, 2011

Hi yoenoess, we live in the same country, and I had that problem too! I still dont know what had happened to my soap. but I saved my soap by rebatching again and it came out beautifully. The fragrance still preserve (I had Rose EO).

Perhaps we can share our experience of soap making and how to get the supplier for soapmaking here in Indonesia, as I find it pretty difficult.

carebear · May 10, 2011

yoenoess said:
im hoping less cure time

even with low water, you should expect at least 4 weeks for a good cure of any bar. with as much olve oil as you have, you will likely want at least 6 weeks. if you try higher levels of olive oil you will want even longer.

christan00 · May 11, 2011

Hi,

The sweat you see on your soap is from glycerin. When you mix lye and oil, you get a bonus product besides soap: glycerin. Glycerin, a humectant, attracts water from the air. Commercial made soaps don't have (much) of this natural ingredient because it is extracted from the soap and used for other cosmetic purposes. On the other hand, the soaps we make at home is full of glycerin, expecially, when you have palm kernel oil in the soap.

Make a long story short, the sweat you see on your soap is the water in the air. The more humid of your environment, the more sweet you will see on the homemade soap. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

As far as the bad oder and orange spots, I have no idea what they are. Sorry.

C

yoenoess · May 11, 2011

carebear said:
yoenoess said:

im hoping less cure time

Click to expand...

even with low water, you should expect at least 4 weeks for a good cure of any bar. with as much olve oil as you have, you will likely want at least 6 weeks. if you try higher levels of olive oil you will want even longer.

thank you carebear, i'll adjust my recipe

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