Temperature Question

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Just curious because it is such a specific number - where did you get this temp information from?

Since it sounds like you are a new soaper that is a pretty high temp to start working with. There are situations where you might want to soap at a higher temp, but for the most part you just want to melt your oils for them to mix well. It is also some misinformation that has been passed down that your lye water and oils should be the same temperature.

Higher temps of your oil and lye water trace quicker but also pose a risk for a soap volcano - no bueno. If you are not ready for this, it will be scary and make a big mess.

40C/100-110F are very good temps to start with. I generally make my lye water first and allow it to cool down and melt my oils in a double boiler or crockpot. I then get everything else measured and ready and usually I can soap with a good temp range in under an hour. (Good time to do a few household chores)

As you get more advanced, you can prepare your oils and lye water in advance in a process called master batching, and soap almost immediately.
 
From everything I've gathered, you can mix your oils and lye at a wide range of temperatures. As long as your oils are all melted and it's not too hot, it's all good. Higher temperatures do seem to make soap thicken faster, while soaping at cooler temps will help your batter stay thin longer.
 
Thanks...yes so new at soaping its not funny. Not sure where I got this info from...been reading so much before my first batch. Ok will go low temp!
 
I don't check my temps, haven't done for I don't know how long, couldn't even tell you where a thermometer was in the house. Just melt the solid oils and add to the liquid ones, make up the lye, let it cool, then combine.
 
I don't check my temps, haven't done for I don't know how long, couldn't even tell you where a thermometer was in the house. Just melt the solid oils and add to the liquid ones, make up the lye, let it cool, then combine.
Thanks...when you are new at this game - everything seems to matter and everyone has different opinions. Its hard sifting thru it all.
I poured my first soap and it looks ok...basically did as you said, but made sure the lye was cool enough to add to the oils.
 
Thanks...when you are new at this game - everything seems to matter and everyone has different opinions. Its hard sifting thru it all.
I poured my first soap and it looks ok...basically did as you said, but made sure the lye was cool enough to add to the oils.

Always good to ask if you are not sure.
Depending on your oils (especially if using butters, coconut or palm) you may need to soap a little warmer - especially in winter - as shunt says 110 (43*C) is good to aim for.

I have a laser thermometer whic is such fun to use!
 
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I check temps just because I like to check temps and I prefer to soap at about 110F to avoid those pesky steric bumps. Lots of people go by the feel of the containers and that's fine too. Eventually you'll use the method that's most comfortable for you.

Please post pics of your soap when you cut it. We love soap pics! And congratulations on your first batch!:clap:

ETA: Ignore anything you read that says the lye and oils have to be within 10 degrees of each other. They don't.
 
In my formulas that contain a fair amount of butters and/or hydrogenated PKO, I always like to keep the temps at least 110F/43C. If I soap cooler with them, I get what is known as 'pseudo-trace'. Pseudo-trace is when your hard fats come back out of melted suspension because the temps are too cool to keep them fluid long enough for the heat reaction of the lye to work it's magic on them. At face value, it looks like the batter is going through a real trace, but it's happening much quicker than you expected in spite of not having added any FO yet. In reality, the batter is only thickening up because the hard fats are resolidifying due to the temps being too cool. The tell-tales signs you may have experienced psedo-trace are the appearance of white spots throughout your finished soap, which are bits of solidified stearic acid that re-hardened/precipitated out of your hard fats (i.e., 'stearic spots' or 'stearic bumps').


IrishLass :)
 
I often check the temp of the soap batter when I first start out. Mostly just because I want to -- I'm not overly concerned about soaping at a certain temp. My batter usually is 95 to 120 F (35-50 C). I usually heat my fats until they are just warm enough to be fully melted and clear and add room temperature lye solution to these fats. This works pretty well for recipes high in fats that are solid at room temp -- lard and tallow.
 
Dixie -- Been there, done that, and still do it from time to time!!! When I make fresh lye solution is when I'm most tempted to start soaping too-warm. Masterbatching my lye removes a lot of temptation, and that has definitely been a Good Thing for me.
 
Perhaps you read something about working with beeswax or soywax or stearic acid as an additive. In those situations, higher temps are required in order for them to melt and stay soft while mixing all ingredients. But for oils that are already liquid or close to soft to start with, (liquid oils and even 76° coconut oil for example, when in warm climates) lower temps give you more time to work with the batter. And once you melt your hard oils like cocoa butter, or palm or animal fats, and mix them with the soft oils, the cooler side of warm is better for time to work with the batter. Now I am talking about Cold Process soap making, by the way.

For Hot Process, the temps do go higher, of course, but that is another story. Perhaps you were reading about Hot Process methods? In that case, the higher temps do make sense.

Sometimes it's confusing when new, to read about several different methods of soap making and then the information can kind of get all jumbled together and it's hard to remember which is which. Especially if you haven't tried the methods much yet.
 
Perhaps you read something about working with beeswax or soywax or stearic acid as an additive. In those situations, higher temps are required in order for them to melt and stay soft while mixing all ingredients. But for oils that are already liquid or close to soft to start with, (liquid oils and even 76° coconut oil for example, when in warm climates) lower temps give you more time to work with the batter. And once you melt your hard oils like cocoa butter, or palm or animal fats, and mix them with the soft oils, the cooler side of warm is better for time to work with the batter. Now I am talking about Cold Process soap making, by the way.

For Hot Process, the temps do go higher, of course, but that is another story. Perhaps you were reading about Hot Process methods? In that case, the higher temps do make sense.

Sometimes it's confusing when new, to read about several different methods of soap making and then the information can kind of get all jumbled together and it's hard to remember which is which. Especially if you haven't tried the methods much yet.

Thanks....yes so much info to read and be confused with. Happy to say I have made one batch successfully (CP) and another is still in molds so I hope I have another good one.
 
I'm also a new soaper and these posts were very helpful. I have made 4 different batches - Castile, Oatmeal, Lemongrass, and Orange. I have experienced the surprise of accelerated trace and wasn't expecting it, but I think that was due to using bentonite clay (in the oatmeal soap), which I didn't realize how quickly that can thicken up a batter. Next time, I'm prepared.
 
I don't check my temps, haven't done for I don't know how long, couldn't even tell you where a thermometer was in the house. Just melt the solid oils and add to the liquid ones, make up the lye, let it cool, then combine.


I read somewhere of people who do not melt their oils, and just put the freshly mixed lye into the oils without mixing, so the lye will melt the oils. Then finally stir.

Anyone does this? What is your opinion?
 

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