Formulating a Mechanic Soap

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JimSteel

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I've made a batch so far, one of my first soapmaking endeavours, but I'm starting to learn more and have began considering other formulas.

Off the top of my head, the recipe was something like
85% coconut oil
15% olive
d-limonene used in place of water at about 3% mass.
ground pumice.
very low superfat - under 5%

I know, this is a formula for a very drying bar. First and foremost I want this to be extremely cleansing to cut some heavy grease and with my preliminary testing, it works well.

So, I've been doing some research and I see two options for my future batches.

1) go with a very high (even 100%) coconut oil and a high superfat (10-20%?) to make for a very cleansing bar that is easy on the skin.

2) Keep something similar to my recipe, where a conditioning oil is used and the superfat is kept much lower.

Not having experience on high superfat soaps yet, I was wondering if anyone had some thoughts on how these soaps might contrast. Keeping in mind my primary goal is a super cleansing bar. Conditioning comes second, but if i can have my cake and eat it too, that would be a bonus.

Thanks, Jim
 
I actually make a scrubby mechanics handsoap with cream soap. I add a bit of aloe oil and a bit of glycerine with pumice and 15X orange. It doesn't dry my husbands or his machinists friends hands but gets the grease off without overdrying. I also make a high CO 5% SF soap with 15X orange and pumice and a bit of luffa that works well too.
 
I made my regular recipe (lard, olive, coconut, castor) as a camo soap - so it had charcoal and cocoa for color - and gave them a way. A co-worker RAVED that her husband LOVED it. He's a mechanic and said it worked better than the mechanic's soap in the orange bottle.

I would try also add a regular recipe with coffee grounds and one with oatmeal.
 
I call mine gardener's soap since that's mostly why I make it. :)

Mine's 50 CO, 50 palm, with a 0.5% super fat, using full water. Then cure for a minimum of eight weeks to make sure there's no lye excess.

So far it's been able to rip through oil, dirt, grease, and functions well on pots in the sink and windows.
 
Okay, so far I'm gathering that lots of different formulas work, but does anyone know specifically how I high SF pure CO would perform compared to a low SF CO and OO/other gentle oils
 
Given the data thus far presented, it seems that a wide variety of formulae work perfectly as a mechanic's soap. Including those with less cleansing oils.

Exfoliants or other scrubby bits will certainly help as they dislodge the grease and dirt from the skin and help to assure the soap can surround it and carry it away.

I have a suspicion that a coffee ground and pure Castile with low superfat could be used as a mechanic's soap. It might not be nearly as effective as a lot of coconut oil, but it should work with some effort.
 
I call mine gardener's soap since that's mostly why I make it. :)

Mine's 50 CO, 50 palm, with a 0.5% super fat, using full water. Then cure for a minimum of eight weeks to make sure there's no lye excess.

So far it's been able to rip through oil, dirt, grease, and functions well on pots in the sink and windows.

Do you add any abrasive?
 
I was helping my hubby in the garage and got oil all over my hands. Used my 100% CO, 20% SF soap to clean up and it worked wonderfully. Didn't have to use a scrub brush at all and my hands aren't dry. I'll have hubby try it too, see of he has a opinion on it compared to his normal mechanics soap that is made with 25% co and pumice.
 
That would be awesome Obsidian, I was thinking of making some one ounce pucks to compare between the two, but you might be able to save me some time. Like... weeks. :p
 
I have two, and both are 100% CO with 20% SF.

The first is swirled with charcoal, comfrey, and black walnut. This one is used by a mechanic who swears it's helps his eczema.

The second includes cornmeal soaked in Orange EO. I also use this as a foot scrubber.

My hubby is a mechanic and these bars are welcomed by his work buddies
 
Looks like I might be jumping on the 20% SF team. It sounds promising. I might try soaking my pumice in D-limonene and adding it all at trace.
 
Scrubby enough to get the job done without creating a huge mess. So I guess I should have asked, what % of pumice? Or what % range?
 
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