Hot Process/ Cold Process Recipes

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irissa

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Hello all!

I am new to this forum and am loving to make soap.

I have a problem and I'm starting to panic. I have to make 100 bars of lavender scented shea butter soap as party favors for someone's shower. It's in March. Long story short, my orders for some of my oils got really screwed up, hindering my progress and I am now getting really short on time.

I have recently learned how to make hot process soap and may need to do that in order to have 100 bars ready by March.

My question is: Can you use the same recipes for hot process soap that you do for cold process?

If not then can you use a lye calculator to create a recipe specifically for hot process soaps?

Please help!!

Thanks so much.
 
Hi Irissa,

I've used many of my cold process recipes to make hot process soaps without changing a thing, and they've turned out great. I am no expert on this, though, and some may have better information about adjusting water (maybe adding a little more for HP?) to make the HP soap a little less stiff when you're trying to "pour" (read: glop) it into the molds.

I do know from experience, though, that if you want to add oats in HP, add them AFTER the cook. I added mine once before I cooked the soap, and it (not surprisingly) also cooked the oats. Whoooooowheeeeeeeee! It STANK! I was going to throw the soap out, but the stinky smell seemed to fade after a few days. After about a month, the bars now smell lovely (it's a lavender oatmeal soap), so I guess the stinky oat smell just had to go away. Next time I'll be adding the oats right before I add the EO.
 
Definitely! CP and HP recipes are the same. I make HP by getting the soap to trace and sticking it in the oven at 100C (212F) for 1 hour (with a stir at 30min), and then quickly mix in my essential oils and chunks at the end of cooking and mould while still hot (it's still somewhat fluid to work with when hot). It should look like melted soap when fully saponified (clearish, goopy and cohesive). Once cool it's ready to go, but usually nicer after a week of drying, but adding salt and reducing the water (I use about 27% water) can help hasten the drying. :)
 
True, same recipes work for both but work your recipe so you can add a nice oil in as superfat after the cook. I used 41% water and add sodium lactate to the mix at trace, keeps things lovely & smooth and you could almost pass it off as CP.
Now stop jabbering and get soapin' :lol: (oh, and let us see the results :wink: )
 
You guys are soo great! Thanks so much for your help. I will try it and tell you all how it works out.
 
irissa said:
Hello all!

I am new to this forum and am loving to make soap.

I have a problem and I'm starting to panic. I have to make 100 bars of lavender scented shea butter soap as party favors for someone's shower. It's in March. Long story short, my orders for some of my oils got really screwed up, hindering my progress and I am now getting really short on time.

I have recently learned how to make hot process soap and may need to do that in order to have 100 bars ready by March.

My question is: Can you use the same recipes for hot process soap that you do for cold process?

If not then can you use a lye calculator to create a recipe specifically for hot process soaps?

Please help!!

Thanks so much.
recipes the same,
i do the crockpot method, its awesome, add oils, disolve lye in water add together , mix, cook til done! add frag and color, it is thick, but just make sure to bang your full soap molds to make settle and get air out. Get soaping!
 
Tough luv

LomondSoap said:
True, same recipes work for both but work your recipe so you can add a nice oil in as superfat after the cook. I used 41% water and add sodium lactate to the mix at trace, keeps things lovely & smooth and you could almost pass it off as CP.
Now stop jabbering and get soapin' :lol: (oh, and let us see the results :wink: )
I fell of my seat laughing at this Corrie.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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