So... something happened with this soap. The top is covered with a network of fine, shallow cracks and it's waxy/crumbly. It is not lye heavy. I tested every face of every bar several times, as well as testing bits that I trimmed off the bars. (Crumbly soap seems to come about most commonly because of separation/excess lye from what I've seen and read.) The crumbly part is all across the top and partway down what were the outside edges in the mold. I sprayed the top with isopropyl alcohol and covered with plastic wrap (not touching the soap) for 24 hours. The cracks were all visible already when I unmolded the soap, and have not changed in appearance since. Soaped fairly cool- around 110*F. I did not insulate. Recipe is after pics (ignore the white bits on the one soap- they're soap crumbs that are stuck on).
Here are pics of some of the bars:
You can see especially on this one the very subtle color change between the crumbly layer and not crumbly soap, along the top edge.
Soap recipe:
Lye concentration 40%
Distilled water 103g
NaOH 68g
Coconut oil 25% 126g
Olive oil 40% 175g
-plus 25g in colorants
Rice bran oil 15% 75g
Shea butter 15% 78g
Castor oil 5% 25g
~1/2 ounce essential oil mix (orange, patchouli, lemongrass) added at trace (thin to medium).
Batter split and colored with red and yellow iron oxides (dispersed in olive oil from the batch total).
This is the same recipe I used for the Blue Lace Agate soap, the only difference is a 33% lye concentration for the agate soap. It ashed heavily on top, but was not crumbly at all (I did not spray this soap, but did cover it overnight). Also not insulated.
My initial, tentative conclusion is that the cracking and crumbling were caused primarily by my lye concentration. I'm going to switch back to a 30-33% solution for several batches, and see if I still have this problem in this mold.