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ucmj22

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Southern Illinois
Hello, I just made my first batch this weekend (HP) and figured I should get in to a community of experts to help me when I melt the skin off of my hands. I skipped over CP because I'm impatient, and didnt want to wait 2 months before using my soap :).
I think my first batch went pretty good, I used Lavender EO and chopped up some lavender leaves I dried from my garden for an added visual element. I think I added a half an Oz. too much coconut oil because my bars are a little soft, but other than that I am pretty happy. I look forward to learning a lot here, and maybe being able to help others. I am a Graphic designer by trade, and will be making my own labels and such, so if anyone would like help on that front, dont hesitate to ask.

Patrick
 
Hi Patrick,

Welcome! Congratulations on your first batch! :D

There really isn't a cure time difference between CP and HP. HP also benefits from several weeks curing because the excess water evaporates to make a harder bar and the soap becomes milder. Also, coconut oil helps with hardness so if you added too much it wouldn't be soft but it might be a little drying. I recommend reading David Fisher's Qualities of Soap Making Oils to help you with the oil properties.
 
Thanks for the tip. I read "Everything Soap Making Book" by Alicia Grosso before I took the dive, I know I need to read it again though. Any other must reads I should know about?
 
Hazel said:
Hi Patrick,

Welcome! Congratulations on your first batch! :D

There really isn't a cure time difference between CP and HP. HP also benefits from several weeks curing because the excess water evaporates to make a harder bar and the soap becomes milder. Also, coconut oil helps with hardness so if you added too much it wouldn't be soft but it might be a little drying. I recommend reading David Fisher's Qualities of Soap Making Oils to help you with the oil properties.

Thank again for the link to the article, just a couple of questions on oils after reading.

1.) While following the general guidelines as to ratios of makeup for the oils, can I substitute any oils in my recipe as long as the total oil weight is the same? IE my first batch was 72% olive / 25% coconut / 3% castor. Could I have made it 52% olive / 30% avacado / 25% coconut / & 3% castor without issue?

2.) He talks about shelf life of an oil. If I use an oil that has a 6mo shelf life, and it takes 1.5-2 mo to cure before selling, does that mean that if the buyer doesn't use it in 4 mo then it will start to go bad, and I'll look like a jerk?

3.) on Olive oil he said "Olive oil soaps are very moisturizing, make hard, white bars of soap" and in coconut oil he says"[coconut oil] also makes for a very hard, white bar of soap." yet my soap is relatively soft (I realize its only a couple of days old) and somewhat of a creamy yellow. What did I miss?

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ucmj22 said:
1.) While following the general guidelines as to ratios of makeup for the oils, can I substitute any oils in my recipe as long as the total oil weight is the same? IE my first batch was 72% olive / 25% coconut / 3% castor. Could I have made it 52% olive / 30% avacado / 25% coconut / & 3% castor without issue?

No, you'd have to recalculate because the lye amount would be different.


2.) He talks about shelf life of an oil. If I use an oil that has a 6mo shelf life, and it takes 1.5-2 mo to cure before selling, does that mean that if the buyer doesn't use it in 4 mo then it will start to go bad, and I'll look like a jerk?

Saponification helps to prevent oils from going rancid as long as you don't have too high of a superfat. I have some bars I made from over 2 years ago that are fine. However because I didn't get around to using up the remainder of two of the oils, these oils went rancid. I was just sick that I had to toss these oils. :( I know people have mentioned having soap that is quite a few years old that are still fine. You also wouldn't want to use too large of a percentage of an oil with a short shelf life.

3.) on Olive oil he said "Olive oil soaps are very moisturizing, make hard, white bars of soap" and in coconut oil he says"[coconut oil] also makes for a very hard, white bar of soap." yet my soap is relatively soft (I realize its only a couple of days old) and somewhat of a creamy yellow. What did I miss?

People have mentioned different types of olive oil produce different coloration in soap. I used refined Grade A OO and my soaps have never been white. They tend to be more of an off white or cream color. Someone mentioned EVOO can turn a greenish/yellowish color. I don't remember if pomace causes a discoloration or not. I wouldn't worry about it unless you really want a white soap. If you want it really white, you'd probably have to add some titanium dioxide.

Olive oil also takes a long time to cure but eventually it will get hard. Some people have mentioned curing at least 3 months, some have said they prefer to cure even longer so the lather improves. Don't worry if it stays soft for awhile. It's normal for high percentage olive soaps to be soft in the beginning especially if you used a full water amount. Castor oil also makes for a soft soap but generally isn't a problem unless you use a large percentage.

There is a learning curve to soapmaking but by tweaking recipes and comparing the different batches, you'll start to learn what each oil brings to the soap. You'll also learn what you prefer. For example, I found I prefer a lower CO percentage, a higher SF and I like to cure my batches for about 6 weeks. But this is just my preference. BTW, if you're thinking of selling someday, here's a link to a thread which discusses on how to know if you're ready to sell. http://soapmakingforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17621

Also, your soap looks very nice!
 
Thanks for all of the great advice! I can notice already that the soap is becoming harder and more white. Just for the record, I put my recipe in to the soap calc, and my ratios were actually CO 3% CocO 32% OO 65% with my water at 38% total weight and a 4% super fat discount.
 
ucmj22 said:
my ratios were actually CO 3% CocO 32% OO 65% with my water at 38% total weight and a 4% super fat discount.

The full water amount explains a lot of the softness. Be patient. It will harden. :D
 
Superfat refers to excess oil added into a batch over the amount of lye needed to saponify the oils. It's really the same as a lye discount. Here's a good explanation for it (plus posting a link makes it easier on me because I don't have to type out the info :wink: ). http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapm ... perfat.htm

Here's a great article which will help you to understand about using less water in batches ---> How to Discount Water
 
You're welcome!

Everyone was new at some time. That's the purpose of the forum - to help people learn and in my case, post links to educational articles. :lol:
 
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