Lavender scent pricing

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I ditto the temperature warning. Make sure you know the flashpoint and don't add the EO until you soap has cooled enough.

With my first batch, I poured my precious EO into the cooked soap, only to witness them evaporate. That was an expensive lesson to learn.
 
I added the default soapcalc fragrance ratio of .5 of lavender and lemongrass to my test batch last night and it seems kind of strong even then....

It's been a steep learning curve, but I'm learning! It all boils down to lot of experimentation! No way around it!
 
After some calculations....it turned out that bulk apothecary came out cheaper for the 1lb. size with their 10% discount code and the lower shipping charges.

Jayjay, what is a good temp to let it cool down to after the cook in order to avoid the EO evaporating? I found that my .5 ratio came out very weak after 4 weeks of cure.
 
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That article really doesn't explain flash point at all. The method described is more of a crude experiment to determine the property called vapor pressure.

Wikipedia's article is a correct explanation of flash point See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point

Eta ... I think there's a lot of confusion about flash point in regard to retaining fragrance in a product. I make a point to add scent or other heat sensitive ingredients to my lotion or HP soap or whatever when the product is as cool as is practical. That's often well below the flash point and that's all to the good ... cooler is better.
 
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DeeAnna said:
That article really doesn't explain flash point at all. The method described is more of a crude experiment to determine the property called vapor pressure.

Wikipedia's article is a correct explanation of flash point See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_point

Eta ... I think there's a lot of confusion about flash point in regard to retaining fragrance in a product. I make a point to add scent or other heat sensitive ingredients to my lotion or HP soap or whatever when the product is as cool as is practical. That's often well below the flash point and that's all to the good ... cooler is better.
Click to expand...

What is a good temp for HP soap to cool down to, but not get so cool that the batter will be clumpy /chunky in the mold?
 
It's a question rather like "how long is a piece of string?" In that the answer is "it depends"

Different recipes will solidify at different temperatures, so I would say to watch one regularly as it cools, checking the temp and seeing if it is okay for moulding.
 
^^^^ The Gent says it best. No substitute for experience with things like this ... and that is what makes soap making as much of an art as it is a science.

For example, an HP soap that has a bit less water due perhaps to a longer cook will be firmer at a higher temp than one with a bit more water. The solution is to evaluate the texture as it cools, not go by a strict temp reading.
 
Oh, Saponista, it's not rubbish! :thumbup: There's merit to this test and I'm glad you shared it. Never seen this idea before. I can see where someone could use it to figure out at what temperature a scent becomes strong or to figure out when certain notes of a scent first appear.
 

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