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Old 02-16-2017, 03:23 PM   #11
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Here is a video from Vermont Soap Company, it does not show a lot of info but might be worth watching

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Old 02-16-2017, 04:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Persofit View Post
It looked translucide so I went ahead and zap tested and that turned out ok. At first when diluting it looked clear but after 2 day it was cloudy with a very thin white film on top. ( I did use a wooden spoon in the paste if that matters)

Thanks for any thoughts
You need to rule out some of the simpler more obvious problems before going into the more complicated. I think you didn't have enough KOH to saponify all your oils. Even a small residual oil will cause clouding and a film to form. 0% superfat is never perfectly accurate because KOH purity and oil SAP values change from batch to batch. Liquid soap is unforgiven of excess oil. The zap test doesn't help here because it tells you about residual lye in your batter but not residual oil.

My suggestion is to take a kg of paste, melt it and add additional KOH to drop the superfat to -5%. Let it cook for an hour or so on low heat and repeat the dilution. If it clears, you identified your problem. Any excess lye can be neutralized with citric acid. If you have a pH meter or pH paper, you can use them to help you get the soap into the right pH range. You're not trying to be 100% accurate with the pH. You just need to be in the right range.

Learning how to scale up is also important. You need to start smaller, repeat repeat and repeat the process until you are very comfortable with it, then scale up again.

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Old 02-16-2017, 05:35 PM   #13
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That's the video I was thinking about -- THANK YOU, Carolyn! This shows the larger vessel with continuous agitation and an external heating jacket. It also shows the concept of adding the alkali as a solid directly to the water and fats in the vessel. That's certainly not the norm for hobby soap making, but it works fine in this context.
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Old Yesterday, 07:14 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Persofit View Post
I received my 20gallon ( [URL="http://www.soapequipment.com"] wax melter to make my liquid soap.
Since I have tried 2 times and had long trace times and cloudy results at the end ( and this recipe gives me nice clear soap )
Try what Soapmaker145 suggested, for a start. It might be as simple as that. Also, Macherey-Nagel strips work well with liquid soap if you need to check pH.

As an aside, be careful of brass fittings on some of these melters. There should be no brass involved in soapmaking. You might be able to find stainless steel fittings to replace them.

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