Recent content by lotionlady

Both Geogard Ultra (aka NeoDefend) and Benzylalcohol DHA are ecocert approved for use in natural and organic products. I use them both and love them. I have also found that it is really important to "heat and hold" your ingredients at 170 deg for 20 mins. I use a dedicated coffee pot for some...

Here's mine:

When I need soap fast, I use a 33% lye concentration and CPOP. I cut it the next morning. You're right that soap is best used after 4 weeks, but it doesn't mean it can't walk out the door after two. If I do that, I might put a sticky on it with a "Best Used After" date. I mean, generally...

My notes show they have the same SAP :? It didn't seem to change my lye measurement that I could tell.

I make chocolate soap with cocoa powder. I love it. Don't know if the cocoa adds to the quality of the soap but it looks neat.

I usually make my Holiday soap with 25% EVOO. But this year I'm sitting here with almost a gallon of High oleic Sunflower oil and thinking, why not sub. Is there any reason that I'm not thinking of? I ran it through soap calc and it looks pretty much the same. I hate having oils go bad on me...

This is the main way I promote my products. Here's how I'm doing it: http://www.harmonyscents.com/v3/samples-menu.shtml I also have a link to this page on my cart reminding folks that they get samples. Almost everyone who orders requests them now. Before I put the link, most people...

I know a lot of people use it in creams and lotions, but the last time I used it in place of all my water in a cream, I got weird stuff happening with the emulsion. It could have been just a reaction with my e-wax, but I didn't like it and won't do it again. I use it as 100% of the liquid in...

Sorry. Bad habit. Water discount.

For me the most fun thing was discovering CPOP. I went from a slimy castile that I wouldn't (couldn't?) give away to a wonderful creamy soap without a bit of slime. And I love that even with my castile, I can cut the next morning. I do it for most of my soap now and it seems to really speed...

I guess I'm the exception. I like my soaps to gel and that seems more reliable at 110 deg. Otherwise, I usually soap at 95-100 deg. I also find quicker trace at slightly higher temps but that's just my experience. I also add my clay at the end as well as my eo's. I tried it the other way...

Uhh, shrinky dinks??

I assume that right after cutting is the time to stamp. While the soap is still soft(ish).

I don't understand what you're asking or looking for.

Wow, you must be worn out! Great work!